I’ve visited the Sea of Cortez during the months of January, July and August and each time I’ve discovered the same Sea in a new way. That’s why on our last trip, we finally opted for a full two-week charter so we could unplug and relax like cruisers rather than run around like harried charterers on a schedule. Per Jacques Cousteau, the Sea is the world’s aquarium, and boy, he wasn’t wrong.
Nautitech 46 Fly from Dream Yacht Charter
Above: A 2019 Nautitech 46 Fly sailing catamaran for sale on YachtWorld. Photo via Alvea Yachts.
Dream Yacht Charter has a robust fleet at posh Marina Costa Baja in La Paz which offers the quickest access to the Sea of any of the marinas in the bay. Our boat was a Nautitech 46 although Dream’s latest fleet refresh now includes a number of new Bali cats and Dufour monohulls. The Nautitech 46 is a top charter choice due to its spacious “Open” layout that connects the cockpit and saloon, versatile cabin options (3 or 4 cabins), and high-performance sailing design. With comfortable amenities like air conditioning, a generator, and a well-equipped galley, it ensures a relaxing experience for all aboard. Its twin aft helms or flybridge station offer excellent visibility and handling, making it suitable for both experienced and novice sailors.
View Nautitech 46 Fly Sailboats For Sale on YachtWorld
Provisioning
Above: An aerial view of La Paz, San Jose del Cabo, Baja California. Photo by Andrea_Izzotti via Pond5.
Our yacht charter experience in the Sea of Cortez began with provisioning at the expansive Chedraui grocery store in La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. Known for its vibrant Malecón promenade lined with beaches, parks, and artwork by Mexican and international artists, La Paz offers a blend of local and familiar essentials, with large grocery stores like Chedraui stocking many items recognizable from American stores. After gathering our supplies, we set our sights on Isla Espíritu Santo, a nearby island that joined the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1995, promising a pristine environment for the start of our adventure.
First Stop: Isla Esperitu Santo
Esperitu Santo has a neighbor, Isla Partida. From a distance they look like one island and are separated by a narrow cove called Los Islotes which is famous for its sealion rookery. Normally, pangas ferry novice snorkelers here from La Paz hotels. They tend to make noise and splash about, rattling the sea life below the waterline. But during the shoulder season of June, we had the place to ourselves, watching large male sealions rush us blowing bubbles to show us who’s boss. The babies and females were mellower and loved biting at and playing with our fins.
Isla San Francisco: An Idyllic Respite
Above: Isla San Francisco. Photo by PhotoNatura via Pond5.
About a half day’s sail north from Esperitu Santo is Isla San Francisco and its crescent-shaped anchorage ringed with white sand. This place is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and vibrant marine life making it ideal for snorkeling and swimming. The reef areas are home to a variety of tropical fish, such as angelfish, parrotfish, and occasionally sea turtles, creating an aquarium-like experience for snorkelers.
Our short hike to the ridge for a good view offered us panoramic vistas, confirming the island’s reputation as an idyllic, picturesque anchorage for travelers looking to experience the best of Baja California’s marine landscape. The hike also left us thoroughly sweaty, so we ran down and opted for a snorkel to the reef where long ribbons of angle fish were gliding by.
Above: A port in Isla San Franciso. Photo by Robert Harding via Pond5.
Below the surface, a kaleidoscope of marine life awaited, with parrotfish nibbling at coral and schools of shimmering silver fish darting in unison. The water was warm and crystal clear, inviting us to explore every crevice and nook in the reef. Sea urchins dotted the rocky ledges, and an occasional sea turtle glided by, unbothered by our presence. It really was like swimming in an aquarium.
After our swim, we relaxed on the soft sand, watching the sun dip lower, casting a golden glow across the tranquil bay. This was truly a slice of paradise, untouched and teeming with life.
A Bit Of Excitement: Dead Reckoning & Paper Charts!
Coming into Isla San Francisco, our chartplotter lost the satellites and the next morning, we still had no electronic navigation, so we went old school with dead reckoning and paper charts as we continued to hunt and peck our way north. The first stop was at the bottom of Isla San Jose at Bahia Amortajada, a mangrove lagoon chock full of turtles, fish and seabirds. We found the entrance to the narrow channel tucked in a corner of the beach and with the exception of one superyacht tender, once again we were blissfully alone.
San Evaristo to Los Gatos Cove and San Telmo
Over the next few days, we found our way to San Evaristo on the peninsula and up to Los Gatos cove which was a challenge to find without the plotter. After 20 miles of northward progress, we picked out a few landmarks and anchored in what we thought was Gatos, a gorgeous anchorage with red rock formations and sandy beaches. After studying the cruising guide, I realized we had passed Gatos two miles back, putting my dead reckoning about 10% off. We had instead found San Telmo which was a close second, so we dropped the hook and explored among the red rocks and tide pools.
Agua Verde: A “Green Water” Angler’s Dream
Next, we came to Agua Verde, which translates to “green water” and lives up to its name. It’s often packed with cruising boats but we were nearly alone except for the night fishermen. At sunset, dozens of pickup trucks backed their trailers down the beach, launching their pangas and fisherman who fish all night, returning in the morning. It’s a rough way to make a living with three guys to a boat but it is something to watch.
Agua Verde to Caleta San Juanico & The Sanctuary of San Basilio
Heading out of Agua Verde, our plotter inexplicably came back online. No more guesswork from here on as we moved north to Caleta San Juanico where we joined cruisers for a game of bocce on the beach. Up on the hill was the Sanctuary of San Basilio, a sort of lodge managed by a couple of sketchy expats who were well into their stash of edibles when we hiked up for a visit. The place is beautiful but we weren’t the targeted exclusive clientele so our plan for cocktails and a view changed to hosting sundowners for the cruisers aboard our big cat in the bay below.
Heading South
Well past the midpoint of our two-week charter, we set course for Isla Coronados to the south and in a mad moment, decided to hike the extinct volcano. It took three hours to go three miles and the view down to the aquamarine anchorage was spectacular, but the going was so rough that I can say with confidence that I’ll never attempt it again.
The next day, we picked up a westerly wind and then covered the rest of the trip back to La Paz in two long days of sailing. On our last night, we anchored in La Balandra cove with its famous mushroom rock. It’s a great shallow anchorage visited by bat rays and is known for the orange sunsets dipping behind tall mountains.
Charter Logistics and Tips for Mexico
Mexico, specifically the Sea of Cortez, is warm but not tropical. It’s stark desert beauty with clear water and skies so blue it’s almost as if your eyes have found a new, undiscovered color. The geography, geology and sea life are unmatched and although the Sea is packed with full-time cruisers, it remains a remote hideaway with few bars but lots of friendly and genuine locals. You can charter year-round although December to February can be blustery with blasting norte winds, while August and September can bring hurricanes although they’re more rare than in the Caribbean.
Getting There & Passport / Tourist Card Requirements
To charter in Mexico, you’ll need a passport and a tourist card (FMM) which you can obtain online. Although La Paz has an airport, Cabo San Lucas (SJD) farther south offers more flights and better prices. From there you can take a bus or a private car north which is about 90 minutes. If you have extra time before or after a charter, visit San Jose del Cabo, about 10 miles from SJD and much quieter and more quaint than Cabo San Lucas. For most Americans and Canadians, chartering in Mexico is a fairly easy commute. You don’t have to cross an ocean to get there and check-in procedures have been much simplified from years past.
Budgeting
Chartering in Mexico is affordable when compared to the Caribbean. Hotels and meals are cheaper as is transportation and provisioning. Make sure to stock up on everything in one of the many large grocery stores in town before departing because there’s very little to buy once you’re in the islands.
Bareboat Charter Companies
Dream Yacht Charter is based in Marina Costa Baja in La Paz and has been the only company offering sailing bareboat charters although rumor has it that The Moorings is preparing to return to the area as the Sea grows in popularity.
Language Barriers
Spanish is spoken although you can get by with English in the cities or tourist towns. In remote areas, bring a phrasebook. Most large business and restaurants will take credit cards and US dollars but pesos and cash are needed for smaller establishments or street vendors. WiFi is sporadic and connectivity out on the Sea is nearly non-existent but you can ask cruisers for weather updates. You may also just enjoy a chance to unplug for a week or two.
An Incomparable Yachting Experience
You’ll want to consider sailing the Sea if you’re looking for a bit of solitude and reflection. Outside of La Paz, the population on the shores of the Sea of Cortez is negligible so there’s little light pollution and the stars are spectacular. Bring your constellation identification app and you won’t miss TV or Instagram a bit. The key to the Sea is its peace, quiet and remoteness, and it never disappoints no matter how many times I return.
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