Owners comments regarding Imrovements made and currently underway
The bow sprit is an extremely integral component of the actual standing and running rigging. On a Vagabond it is critical that it be sound since it carries the tension of the main mast, fore and intermediate stays, not to mention the foresails. A failure would result in a catastrophic main mast failure.
I decided to change the bow sprit with a new one. Through years of experience in tapping to detect dry rot, I didn’t like the sound when I tapped on it. I had heard that same sound on many other Vagabonds when I was looking at yachts to buy. As it turned out my hunch was right. It had major rot pockets inside that could not be seen on the outside.
I built the new sprit out of aged and air dried VG fir. Full length pieces laminated together with epoxy. I shaped and cut it to be an exact duplicate of the old one and through bolted it with stainless bolts. I then covered it with four coats of epoxy, sanded and painted it. I finished it with four coats of interlux linear polyurethane. It was then bedded and bolted to the boat.
A boatyard estimate to do this work is 10-$12,000
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF TEAK DECK WITH A NEW FIBERGLASS DECK
Any teak deck more than 10 years old should be seriously evaluated and proper steps taken to renew degraded areas. Re-caulking is not the solution, as caulking is NOT the problem (although it may be part of the problem).
The bedding underneath the teak which glues the teak to the deck is the problem. When the teak separates from the deck it creates a void which will fill with water and moisture. If the fix was simply to caulk the seams, there is no pathway for the water to dry and rot begins to infest the deck structure itself.
The fix is to remove the teak and re-bed it or leave the teak off all together.
To remove a teak deck and replace it, whether with a new teak deck or a new fiberglass deck is a huge undertaking.
On a Vagabond 47 there are over ten thousand screws in the teak deck. Each one of them is a potential leak into the deck corer which will cause rot. I chose to remove the teak and leave it off in favor of an epoxy based coating. The way id did this is as follows
I removed all plugs and screws
Removed the teak
Ground the deck until smooth and clean
Drilled each screw hole and filled it with epoxy
Put down four coats of epoxy
Lightly sanded until smooth & clean
Painted detail lines with interlux 2 part poly
Put down two more coats of deck coating
Customarily boat yards charge one third of the value of the boat and they don’t remove the screws. The leave all the screw stubs , cut them flush and they don’t put the epoxy moisture barrier down.
The heating system in this boat is a Hurricane Diesel Fired Boiler type hydronic forced air furnace. The entire system is controlled and guarded through it own computer. The system is controlled by three thermostats , each controlling it’s own zone. There are six forced air heating fan modules. Each are fed from the boiler and each providing heat into two heating vents. Each fan module is wired directly from the computer with it’s own control block which ensures if one module malfunctions, the others will remain working.
The entire system was inspected by Hurricane Technicians and certified.
Their estimated cost of the system installed the way I installed it is $25,000
This heater system heats the floors, each room individually and will cook you out of the boat. It’s not a heater, it’s a furnace system.
REMODEL OF HEAD
The head has been totally rebuilt.
I began this project by removing the entire inside of the room. Once everything was removed I began the restoration by building a new fiberglass shower complete with all new plumbing, sink, fixtures, valves, drain and sump pump.
There is led lighting at the top of the shower. It has a new vanity with new countertops, sink and epoxy fillets thru out for easy cleaning. I built a new vanity wall with handmade fluted panels, a custom mirror and finished it off with a custom floor that is vinyl (again for durability) but I made it look like teak and holly.
All deck fittings have been removed, cleaned, buffed and rebedded with new sealant and thru bolted with new stainless steel bolts.
It is all absolutely water tight and sound.
TRUNK CABIN TOPS IN PROGRESS
The trunk cabin tops were originally covered with teak decking. Just like the main deck. I have removed the teak, removed the screws, sand and faired the surfaces. I’m applying four coats of epoxy and two coats of deck coating with linear polyurethane striping to match the main deck.
Boat Yard estimates for this work were 6,500-$8,000*
HULL BOTTOM IN PROGRESS
When I began the process of repainting the bottom, I sanded off all the old bottom paint. At that point I noticed a few small areas of what may be latent crazing in the gel coat. I applied a special dye to those areas to confirm the crazing.
I decided it was time to remove all the gel coat and apply a new moisture barrier to prevent any future issues when I would be offshore..
The hull has been ground and faired. It is ready for epoxy barrier coats followed by coats of interlux “interprotect 2000E”. This will renew the bottom to a much better than new condition.
Boat Yard cost to do the work is approximately 15-$17,000*
*I’m in process of completing this work and when done will increase the price on the boat accordingly. Current price listed is the boat as it is and where it is.